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金口河,是全四川省唯一個不對外開放的縣級區!
不開放當然指的是對中國人之外的所有人。咱中國人還是可以自由進入的。
這樣對外不開放的縣級區域,旅行者在西藏察隅、墨脫見到過。在新疆阿合奇縣也見到過。在內陸沒有國境線的省份還是第一次見到。
峨邊縣到金口河短短三十公里路程,四十分鍾抵達。
沿着大渡河逆流而上,路況很好。沿途風景美極了!捨不得快快走......
金口河區是四川省樂山市的一個市轄區,位於四川省西南部,小涼山脈中部,1978年從峨邊縣劃出成立縣級金口河工農區,1985年改為樂山市縣級的金口河區。
金口河區是享受少數民族自治縣待遇的縣級區,當地人說,這里剛剛在四月份,才退出了貧困縣序列。
在郵政局,一位操着東北口音的大姐與我攀談。她是聽我與郵政局工作人員說話,以為我是東北人,所以主動打招呼。我聽她說話,也以為他是東北人。結果我們兩人都錯了!我是新疆人,她是陝西米脂人......
我馬上改換陝西腔與她講話,但大姐說聽我的陝西話很親切,但她不會說。因為她三四歲就隨父母親到了這里搞三線建設,1956年出生的她,到現在也沒有去過一次陝西老家。打小就在子弟學校上學、後來在廠里上班。所有的同學、同事都說東北普通話,所以她講話也是東北大碴子味道。
大姐說,她的父親原來是軍工企業某某號信箱的領導,這些企業對外的名字都是「反修」、「紅旗」、「燎原」等等。她們的廠子和家就在大渡河對岸的山坡頂上。現在她已經退休,經常過河到「地方上」的街道上買點兒東西,走動走動。因為南岸熱鬧,北岸的廠區沒有什麼人。前些年那邊繁華熱鬧,這些年廠子基本上沒有什麼活了。
哦......我基本上明白了。
金口河從峨邊縣的一處鄉村,變成了如今的縣級區,是因為在這里前幾十年搞的大規模「三線建設」,在大山溝里建了軍工企業而形成的。如同齊齊哈爾的碾子山區、新疆烏魯木齊的阿拉溝等等,那裡的廠子也是叫紅旗、燎原、反帝、反修等等。
大姐說不容易見到去過她陝西老家的人,如果我在金口河能夠多待幾天,她邀請我去大渡河對岸的廠區和家裡看看。我禮貌地致謝,告訴大姐我只能在金口河待一天,而且准備在下午去鐵道兵博物館。
金口河區的山地面積占總面積可能有百分之九十九,大河、峽谷,典型的大山區。金口河的山大都有兩三千米高,而且全部是岩石山體,峭立挺拔。當地人說市區海拔五六百米,可以看得到的山,海拔就有三千三四百米。
別看是冬天,金口河城區很熱!很舒服!當地人說這里是四川最好的避寒地方。為什麼?雖然這里山峰林立、溝谷深險,但金口河處在大峽谷的谷底,海拔550米至800米的區域,是大渡河峽谷里的「熱河谷」。冬季平均氣溫都不會低於十度。當地人說:毛坪雨,沙坪風,金口河邊好過冬。
這里的城區面積很小,大概三個平方公里大小,全部在大渡河一個河灣的平壩上,城區比峨邊縣要平坦。
街道上可以看到許多穿着彝族服飾的人們,大多數是中老年人。有些年輕人雖然看得出是彝族特有的面龐,但衣飾完全與漢族同胞一樣時髦。金口河區一共有五萬多人口,當地的彝族同胞大概有五六千人。
連接大渡河南北的拱橋,和峨邊縣的一樣漂亮。不過這座橋是紅色的,峨邊縣的是黃色的。這個類型的橋梁叫做什麼橋,昨天已經講過。可能大渡河上有許多座這樣類型的漂亮橋梁。
市場里,瓜果蔬菜很齊全。土豆的品相尤其好看!
區政府的辦公大樓,是一座極為樸素的四層小樓,在當下已經很少見了。
.........干淨、溫暖、親切是金口河給我留下的印象。
能夠在這里過一個冬天才好......可惜,前面還有金口河大峽谷的風景,還有中國唯一的鐵道兵博物館召喚着我......
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四川漢源縣、二零一八、十二、三
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