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稻城縣的老司機,給我教授了一個突破禁行的好方法,並且給我講了幾個不走國道去得榮縣所要經過的鄉鎮名稱。
說如果遇到檢查不讓走的,就告訴他我們要去前方的鄉鎮辦事,絕對不要說去得榮縣,就說到最近的那個鄉鎮辦事;這樣一站一站就可以走到得榮縣了——其實沒有用到這個方法,但照着老司機給定的路線,雖然走的路程有點多,路況也時好時差,但一百六十多公里的路,用了三個半小時就到了(鄉城縣到得榮縣的直線距離最多六十公里,但這不是平原地區,在橫斷山腹地,繞行一百六七十公里已經算是很近了)。
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得榮縣地貌除了山峰就是深切的河谷,平壩極少也極端狹窄。所有的路都在半山的懸崖一側延伸,或者是在很深的河谷里繞行。一路上看到了無數的高山深切割、中切割、淺切割地質類型,難以見到幾塊相對平坦開闊的地方。這里地理上屬於青藏高原東南邊緣地帶,從地貌可以看到,在青藏高原隆起的過程中,地殼受到強大的東西向壓力,在這個區域擠壓出了一系列南北走向的巨大褶皺和斷裂帶,早期的橫斷山脈以及青藏高原東邊的三江並流地帶就是這樣形成的。我們就是走在這些大大小小的山的皺褶縫隙裡面,人在這里顯得極端渺小。一路上看到的車輛也極少,車輛往來少,說明這里經濟活動量很少。
行政上得榮縣也是屬四川甘孜州管轄,與前兩天停留的稻城縣、鄉城縣也都是國家級貧困縣。是四川西南角最南邊的縣,也是挨着雲南和金沙江河谷最近的縣。這里不缺大大小小的河流,但是所有的河水都流向了金沙江,河谷兩岸並沒有平地可以耕作;這里又是極端高山區,又是極端乾旱區。
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走進縣城的道路也僅僅是兩車道,道路的旁邊就是一條流速極快的河流。河流的那一側,也是縣城的建築,縣城中心有一座通行兩側的橋梁......先是沿着道路把狹窄的縣城走到了頭,也沒有找到一個可以停車的地方。
後經當地人指點,才艱難調頭過了縣城中心唯一的大橋,在橋頭的收費停車場停下來。一晚上收費三十元......停車場工作人員問我從哪裡來?得知我從鄉城縣過來,他很納悶而且佩服,說已經封閉了國道,當地人都出不去進不來,我這個外地人居然從鄉城到了得榮。
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前天的稻城縣縣城是一個平坦開闊的平壩,很大很開闊;昨天的鄉城縣是在碩曲的河岸一側,雖然沒有稻城縣平坦開闊,但比起今天的得榮縣縣城,鄉城縣所處的河谷要開闊二三十倍。得榮縣縣城所處的河谷不但狹窄而且兩側很陡峭,縣城只有河谷兩岸的河邊有米的一二十米地方,可以容納一排建築和一條道路,建築的背後就是坡度極大的山坡......天空在得榮縣,只是兩山之間的一塊藍色。只有到了中午時分,才可以看到太陽......當地人說得榮原先叫做德隆,德隆的藏語意思就是峽谷之地。
得榮縣的所有行政機構和商業機構都分布在河谷旁邊,幾乎所有的行政機構都在進行外牆的裝修,可能是要添加保溫層或是更新外牆裝飾吧。所有的建築幾乎都被腳手架包裹着,看不到真面目......找住宿,費了一番周折,這里的旅館很少,而且價格很貴。而且在得榮縣只要你走動,就是在爬山。縣城的海拔有二千四五百米,在這里「爬山」還是很費力的......
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當地人說,得榮縣面積接近三千平方公里,總人口只有二萬五千多人,人口密度每平方公里只有不到九個人。絕大多數是藏族人口,漢族人口只有不足一千人;但是這里的人們和稻城、鄉城一樣,漢語說得很好,聽起來比福建、廣東的漢人說漢語要強得多。
這里明朝的時候屬於雲南麗江納西族的木氏土司管轄,木土司就是戲劇裡面的那個木老爺,麗江古城裡現在還有「木老爺府」。清朝歸巴塘的土司老爺管轄,到了清朝末年的宣統三年(1911),這里「改土歸流」廢了土司制度,開始由中央政府設縣。民國時期又是屬於西康省管轄,到了1955年撤銷西康省之後,這里歸屬於四川甘孜州到今天。
縣城最開闊的地方是大橋旁邊的一處建築,建築的頂端是縣城的「廣場」,廣場上還有一座雕塑;廣場地面的下方是商鋪,商鋪一面朝着縣政府門前的街道,一面朝着湍急的河流,這里也是縣城的商業中心區域。
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得榮縣沒有現代工業,農業主產玉米、青稞、小麥、土豆、蕎麥。說是這里的「樹椒」——樹上長的金黃色辣椒很有名,但沒有見到。一大早縣文化中心門前參觀了縣城唯一的一個籃球場之後,走下很陡的台階,在政府門前的街道邊看到了不少賣菜的小攤販。各種蔬菜都是當地出產,買了幾斤石榴,還買了五六個仙人掌果......酸甜可口的仙人掌果,我在中國其他地方還沒有見過也沒有品嘗過,很特殊的味道。
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雲南香格里拉,二零一八、十、十五
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